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Last updated - Saturday, August 5, 2006 9:41

July 5th

After another late Amtrak train journey, accompanied by the very loud soundtrack of a trailer-trash bimbo and a Mexican who wanted to get into her pants, we arrived to a warm welcome at probably the best hostel in San Francisco. We'd fallen on our feet again, as a result of a 10-minute conversation on a scary bus ride in Mexico, where we met our new hostess, Tai, whose house we ended up staying at. Our timing was perfect as we arrived just in time for the Gay Pride celebrations. On the Sunday, we viewed the spectacle that is the Pride march, a visual feast of colour, outrageousness and fun! The festivities included music, dancing, cheer leading, S&M and fetish demos and a range of weird and wonderful stalls, not to mention the uninhibited crowds (approx. 1 million people). We even bumped into Tony Blair who came out and bared all about his plans to find Bush's weapon of mass destruction (please see pic for evidence)...certainly an experience we'll never forget (some of which we wish we could!!).

Graham's new friends
Keira meets Tony (again!)

Not wasting any time, we went on a search for some engagement/wedding rings as we knew we'd get more for our money in the USA. Looking like tramps, we wandered into Simayof, an exclusive jewelers (apparently one of their 6 stores is in the Venician in Las Vegas), where we met our favourite jeweler, Chanan, who was friendly and helpful unlike his female colleague who looked us up and down like we were dog turd. Forty minutes later we were sat on the sofa near the bar (yes, there was a bar and TVs), having a glass of wine and eating Ferrero Rocher, much to the surprise to the snob/slut, having made a purchase.

Our favourite jeweler - Chanan
Frisco cable car

While in Frisco, we also rode (clung on to the outside for dear life!) the world famous cable cars, visited the crookedest street in the city, Lombard Street, and passed through Alamo Square, where the row of Victorian houses overlooking the square are probably the most photographed buildings in the city.

A visit to San Francisco wouldn't be complete without the obligatory trip to the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz. The bridge was...big...and...red! The island known as The Rock (Alcatraz) was eerie as it appeared through the fog. The award-winning tour around the cells and prison areas was just as spooky, introducing us to the prison life of Al Capone and other notorious criminals. NB. Useless factoid no.2: the birdman of Alcatraz never actually kept any birds on the island.

Lombard (crooked) Street
Alamo Square 

To show our appreciation to Tai we cooked her & Ann a traditional roast dinner (bonus for us as we do miss them), and in honour of Wimbledon, we had strawberries and cream for dessert. We had a really fun night, drinking, playing cards and chatting. The following day, hung over and with tequila breath, we took a day trip on a zero-emissions bio-bus to Muir Woods and the Sonoma and Nappa Valley wine regions. The giant redwoods in the forest were amazing and Graham (aka Captain Planet) finally got to hug a tree. The fresh air was welcome and we were then ready for some 'hair of the dog'. We stopped at 4 wineries and tasted a range of Californian wines in the sun. A lifestyle we could definitely get used to!

By the bridge
The Rock

Back in the city, we took a stroll down Haight-Ashbury - the birth place of the alternative psychedelic 60s culture where at one time free food, free drugs, and free love were on offer. Unfortunately, the food wasn't free and there were no drugs to sample but we did love the shopping and bought some cool stuff.

On what we thought was going to be our last day, we got up early to watch the England v. Portugal game. We all know how this ended: Shrek (Rooney) lost his head, and England lost on penalties. Gutted. We didn't really fancy another Greyhound ride that afternoon (or in fact ever again!), so we took Tai and Ann up on their generous offer of a 4th of July weekend road trip down to LA via the famously scenic Californian route 1.

Tree hugger (finally)
Wine-tasting crew

On the dock of the bay
Street art


July 24th

A day later than expected, we left the fog of San Francisco behind for our second US road trip, but this time, we didn't have to do the driving. Our hostess became our chauffeur as we hit route 1. On the first day we stopped a number of times, Keira was blown away (almost literally) by the views. We parked up for a picturesque lunch by the McWay Falls, a beautiful and unique stream of water that falls into the sea. Whilst taking some pics of the local bird life, Graham was suddenly attacked by what seemed like a prehistoric pterodactyl who had been eyeing up his tasty looking Dorito. Tired and exhausted from the hard life of sightseeing and drinking beer, we retired to a campsite within the Big Sur region for more beer. Even when it comes to campsites, size really does matter in the US. Each pitch has its own driveway, room for at least a couple of big tents, a picnic table with benches for 10 people, a barbecue and a campfire container, where at home we would have 10 tents crammed together. Quite a few beers later, and after some 'smores' (toasted marshmallow and chocolate sandwiched between 2 Graham crackers, that reminded us of warm wagonwheels), we wandered down to the beach for some stargazing with Tai and Ann. Due to the lack of light pollution, the night sky was amazing - full of sparkling stars, planets and UFOs. Yes, in true 'Independence Day' weekend style, the aliens made another abduction attempt. But this time we were ready for them and during the battle that ensued, we even managed to capture one of the tentacles as a souvenir (please see pic). In celebration of our victory and in the absence of fireworks, we had a spontaneous 'light-off' with Tai and Ann. If you've never heard of a light-off, it basically went something like this: In an attempt to locate each other in the pitch black, a torch was flashed 'Morse code style' and the other couple flashed back in response. This went on for some time with the flashes (or light shows) becoming more and more elaborate and ridiculous, with spinning, running and jumping, both solo and 'duet'. We haven't laughed so much in ages -Keira could hardly breath and nearly peed herself. The next day, hungover (again), on the way to Los Angeles, we stopped to observe the hundreds of elephant seals in their natural habitat on the coast.Later that day we arrived in LA, said our goodbyes to our Frisco companions and hello to the LAliens - this is the term we used to describe them as they appeared to be a mixture of human and alien, with the following characteristics: miserable, rude, ignorant, obnoxious, and unhelpful... welcome to LA!

Route 1
Windy Route 1

McWay Falls
California Coast


LA is all about the money
And if your face fits
Packed with plastic surgeons
Who can modify your bits.

Almost everyone we spoke with
Including the tourists too
Urgently needed treatment...
To say 'please' and 'thank you'.

Shallow, ignorant and rude
Driving round in flashy cars
In need of personality transplants
All blinded by the stars?

So let me just recap
LA is all about the wealth
I wouldn't stay too long
It's really bad for your health!

Bird life on Route 1
Campsite Big Sur

Another alien encounter
Beach light show


Our hostel was well located, right in the centre of Hollywood Boulevard. From there we took a whistle stop tour of the city which included sights such as Johnnie's cafe - famous from Pulp Fiction; Venice Beach - home of Muscle Beach and steroid-pumped show-offs with small lunch boxes; Malibu Beach - of Boobwatch/Baywatch fame (at which point the theme tune was blasted through the tour bus speakers - cool!); the Walk of Fame - here we met many stars ('resting' actors) and fresh from the World Cup, Wayne Rooney (see pic); the obligatory Hollywood sign - nothing to write home about really (oops, that's what we're doing!); tour of stars' homes, including Jack Nicholson, Elton John, Robert Redford, Britney Spears, etc.; a stop at Rodeo Drive - shops for the stars. We couldn't visit the home of movies without going to see one so we saw two at the Chinese theatre (where all the stars' hand prints and signatures adorn the entrance). We saw Superman Returns and relived our childhoods during the classic theme tune and also Nacho Libre which was funny. Although we enjoyed the US, LA left a bitter taste in our mouths and we were glad to finally leave to our island in the sun... Fiji!

Elephant seals
Ann and Tai are the ones on the left

Pulp Fiction cafe
Muscle Beach

Us and Wayne Rooney
Spot the Hollywood sign

Leonardo Di Caprio's pad
Where the rich and shallow shop

Chinese Theatre
Star spotter