December
29th 2006
Due
to need to obtain several visas for our onward
journey we were forced to spend two weeks
in Krung Thep, the City of Angels, also known
as Bangkok. Whilst nervously awaiting the
return of our passports from various embassies,
cutting through the red tape for our Russian
visa and trying to locate the recently moved
Mongolian embassy, we found ways to fill our
time. These included: Splashing out on an
overdue engagement ring for Keira and some
tailored suits for Graham, visiting numerous
temples and the particularly impressive Grand
Palace complex, taking scary tuk-tuk rides
and breathing in the fresh pollution, and
spotting the ladyboys and bikini-clad prostitutes,
declining the offer of a ping pong show, at
pat Pong, the red light district.
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Us
in our sleeping quarters on the train
from Malaysia to Thailand
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G
in a tuk-tuk |
The
thing that struck us in Bangkok was that at
least 50% of the population were wearing yellow
T-shirts. We soon worked out that the brightly
coloured attire was in celebration of the
King of Thailand's 60-year reign (the longest
in the world) and his 79th birthday which
happened to be as we were there. Yellow is
the symbolic colour of Monday, the day he
was born. We waved our yellow flags and lit
a candle on 5th December with the thousands
of others, following the herds into the centre
of Bangkok where there was a fire-works display
in his honour.
The
Thais love their King
60 years at the top
World's longest reigning Monarch
No signs that he will stop
Revered by his people
Like religion, both divine
Please don't insult either
You may end up serving time
Sea of yellow across a country
Royal emblem on everything
Like a heart upon a sleeve
Long live the King!
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The
highlight of Bangkok had to be the Muay Thai
Boxing at the famous Lumphini Stadium. Almost
anything goes during this ancient martial
art, accompanied by screaming, chanting, cheering,
jeering, gambling crowd. We had ringside seats
and met the winner of he main fight.
We also escaped for a few days, to a beach
resort by a small town called Baan Kruit.
Throughout all of the above, G was suffering
from the bum runs, and after two weeks, we
decided to cut the crap and go to Bumrungrad
Hospital (Yep, that's it's real name!) where
that's
literally what they did. Armed with some antibiotics
we took a train north to Chiang Mai where
the climate is cooler, the pace is slower
and the air is breathable again!
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Ring
my bell?
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Top
to toe... |
We
were looking forward to visiting some hill-tribes,
doing a cookery class and learning more about
the art of meditation. 1 out of 3 wasn't bad,
with a colonoscopy thrown in! Unfortunately
the bum runs didn't subside and a visit to
the hospital and subsequent operation was
on the menu instead! We did however get to
visit Chiang Rai where lies the Golden Triangle
- the meeting point for Myanmar (Burma), Thailand
and Laos, once the primary area for the opium
trade. On the way back we were introduced
to some tribes people. There are 10 different
recognised 'mountain' tribes, each having
their own language, customs, mode of dress
and spiritual beliefs. We went to see 3 of
them - the Akha, the "Long Necks"
and the "Big Ears".
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Thailand's
red light district
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And
the winners are....! |
Our
time in Thailand has had it's ups and downs,
but we tried to make the most of it and one
in evening in Chiang Mai, the earth moved
for us, literally! An earthquake reaching
5.1 on the Richter scale woke us in the early
hours. Keira had no recollection of it as
usual! As we had to return to Chiang Mai in
one week for the test results from the pathologist,
we decided to take a mini-break to a new country,
Laos. We booked a slow boat tour on the Mekong
river to Luang Prabang which was an experience
in itself, taking 3 days and 2 nights. The
journey was both gruelling and gripping with
lush scenery, occasional stops to pick up
delicacies such as coke and barbecued rat,
offering a glimpse into the lives of the local
Laotions, who apart from the odd satellite
dish, lead a very simple and happy life with
the river as their focal point.
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Thai
boxing crowd
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G
celebrating the King's 79th birthday |
The
uncomfortable journey to Luang Prabang was
eased on the way by the company of an English
couple, Ann and David, who we spent some time
with during our stay. We explored the French-colonial-influenced
town with them and the laid back night market,
Graham watched the other three enjoy their
alcoholic accompaniments to a couple of meals
(due to the antibiotics!). Although we didn't
do much or stay long, the pace of life and
atmosphere in Luang Prabang made it one of
our favourite places in South East Asia so
far and we were sorry to have to leave, especially
with the thought of another slow boat journey
back to Thailand. It would have been faster
by speed boat but we didn't want to meet our
maker on the Mekong! Luckily, the return journey
was made utterly 'delightful' by Aussies Ben
and Kelly and Kiwi Jo, and for the most part
we were able to 'disengage' from an eccentric
old German lady who wouldn't shut up! We had
hoped to return to Chiang Mai late on the
second day but missed the border crossing
which closed at 6pm. This did have a positive
side however, as G, having finished his antibiotics
that morning, was able to taste some of "the
best beer in SE Asia", BeerLao. After
one beer, with a fuzzy head, he stumbled back
to the hotel. The aim of the day was to get
to Chiang Mai hospital before 5pm when the
Doctor left, but being on Thai time, we weren't
too hopeful of making it. But we did, arriving
with half an hour to spare, only to be told,
after 3 days of travelling, that the Doc was
in a meeting. Fortunately we were allowed
back the following day to collect the results,
some more drugs, and believe it or not, a
DVD of the operation (mmm...nice!).
Shit
Happens
A parasite has befriended me
Is playing me for a fool
Sending me daily messages
Hidden in my stool
Not quite the travel bug
I had planned to catch
The antibiotics are struggling
Perhaps I'll light a match?
Oh no, I will not give up
It may get tired and take a nap
I have faith in the Doctors
I know they'll 'cut the crap'
And that's just what they did
But they had to look inside
"Show yourself you slime ball"
There is no place to hide
There you are, we found you
With our microscopic lens
Enough of you controlling
When my...shit happens!
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That evening we were due to take a short flight
to Bangkok and as we cruised down to the end
of the runway without taking off, we realised
another delay was on the cards. We were ushered
back to the departure lounge with news of
technical difficulties and an hour delay.With
thoughts of 'Final Destination' on our minds,
we were please when it was announced that
a replacement aeroplane was on its way, unfortunately
from Bangkok. Approximately 6 hours later
than scheduled, we finally boarded the new
plane and flew 'home' for Christmas in Bangkok.
We were welcomed back to our previous hostel
at around 5.30am on Christmas Eve.
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6-headed
snake-dragon?
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G
at Ban Kruit hill-top temple |
After
almost 9 months on the road, we were craving
a more traditional Christmas. So with a limited
budget, we turned our room into a grotto,
G's football socks into stockings, and Santa
did not forget us! On Christmas day we handed
out mince pies to the hostel staff and Italian
neighbours, watched some cheesy Xmas flicks,
played home-made Charades and Pictionary,
and treated ourselves to the full works Christmas
dinner at the local Irish pub, complete with
turkey, Xmas pud and crackers (although the
cracker 'jokes' were bizarrely more like the
world's most depressing facts than tacky jokes).
Anyway, we hope you all had a festive yuletide!
Boxing Day was a return to reality with travel
planning on the agenda. The following day
we made our way to our 11th country, Cambodia.
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
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Waiting
for them to 'cut the crap' at the hospital
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From
left to right - Thailand, Myanmar (Burma)
and Laos |
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Top
of Thailand
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Pain
in the neck? |
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Smile!
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Sardines
in a slow boat... |
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Mistified...
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BBQ
rat anyone? |
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Nutters!
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Night
market, Luang Prabang |
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Us
and Lao companions Ann and David
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Monk'tastic |
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First
beer (Laos) in over a month in Laos
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Delightful!
Jo, Kelly and Ben with Us in Laos |
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McShit!
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Our
Bangkok grotto |
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Christmas
angel?
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Christmas
dinner at the Dubliner |
