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Last updated - Thursday, April 27, 2006 19:13

March 2006

A trip of a lifetime with Keira

By Graham Relton (Christmas 2005)

Nervous and excited, it’s so hard to express

What the future has in store is more happiness

So much to look forward to, so much to see and do

A new journey starts soon, a dream come true

Stepping off the rat race to face the unknown

A test of each other to see how much we’ve grown

A lot to leave behind…routine, family and friends

But lots to discover, new people, cultures, trends?

Creating memories for eternity, sights, smells and sounds

It won’t always be easy; we’ll have our ups and downs

Going round the world together, we’ll see it through

But my trip of a lifetime began when I met you!

This poem was written for Christmas 2005 and sums up quite a few of the feelings we both are having before we leave for our round the world trip. I would say we are 95% excited, 4% nervous and 1% scared! But as you can see from the picture below we are packed and almost ready to go! Not long now...

Booked it, packed it...almost f*?ded off!
 

3rd April

At 13:55 we depart on our epic journey around the world. Starting in Mexico City!

G and K Mexico City
Sunset Mexico City
 

8th April

Keira's BIRTHDAY! Yippie we are staying in a 2 star hotel...luxury we hope.

Mexico City is much better than the guide books lead you to believe. We have crammed so much into the first three days, it feels like we have been away for at least two weeks already! The hostel Moneda is great, we have seen our first cockroach of the trip on our first full day. Graham ate a relative on our 2nd day (grasshopper) "It tastes like crunchy chicken with a seafood kick...Quite nice really!" (See pic of it´s family) In no particular order, this is what we´ve been doing with ourselves since we arrived: Explored the Zocalo (2nd biggest city square after Red Sq in Russia which we´ll also see at end of trip), stumbling across a political march by the market sellers who are peeved about new taxes. Guided walking tour, taking in the most extravagant Post Office in the world. Went up the Torre Latino (a mini empire state building) and saw great views of smogville (actually it wasn´t that bad). We went on the metro and a bus to Coyoacan and have discovered we can actually speak a bit of Spanish (yippie - the weeks of lessons paid off!). Teotihuacan where the 3rd largest pyramid in the world is was amazing! Went to the Mexican holy places including Basilica de Guadalupe (Mexican equivalent to the Virgin Mary). Also found that G´s birthady (16 September) is Mexican independence day. The hostel Moneda may well be the best one that we will stay at, it is located off the Zocalo next to the building where the president has his offices, it has it´s own terrace bar with great views of all the tops of the sinking buildings...and breakfast and dinner/tea are included, yippie! Look out for the next update (we have absolutely no idea when that will be as we are heading out of Mexico City soon).

Graham's Grasshoppers
Cathedral off Zocalo

 

Reaching to the Sun and the Moon

Earth, Wind, Fire, Water

Teotihuacan

Where Gods were once Man

Teotihuacan

Mexico City

Despite what they say
Mexico City is not all bad
Once through the smog
There is a lot to be had
The airport taxi ride
Certainly open our eyes
Red lights, kids in bins
Was this really wise?
Warned not to go left
From the hostel, only right
But that´s after sundown
By day it´s a different sight
We soon found the Zocalo
The very heart of the city
Thousands were marching
It´s the President I pity
From what I could see
He is soon for the axe
He has only introduced
A new two monthly tax
With the decor in the post office
The views from the tower
There is something for everyone
Every week, devery day, every hour
The pyramids at teotihuacan
towered above our little bods´
The Aztecs named them
The place where men become gods
We passed the Plaza Garibaldi
Where the Mariachi´s stay
Like prostitutes they wait
Until a customer will pay
We saw the Lady Guadalupe appartition
Mexican equivilent to the Virgin mary
Hundreds worship it evrey day
Religious icons make me kind of wary
But the statue of Pope John Paul II
Brings many to their knees
An impressive statue indeed
Made from lots of left over keys
We took the Metro to Coyoacan
The ´Muy Bonito´ part of town
Walked for bloody miles
We both wore a frown
In the end it was all worth it
It was a beautiful place
I was told I had nice eyes
...that lady was ace!
The gay and lesbian district
They call the pink zone
In our grubby travel clothes
We certainly lowered the tone
I recommend the Floating Gardens
The yearly fesival of the Spring
Many boats and many Mexicans
With a picnic they did bring
If you ever plan to visit
A little jaunt for the hols
Something you should not miss
Is the Museum of the dolls
A scarier, creepier, freakier
place you will not see
Full of maimed and limbless dolls
Not everyone´s ´cup of tea´!
The markets were electric
Keira...you couldn´t stop her
All I was bothered about
Was trying a grasshopper
It tasted kind of strange
The girls refused to have a lick
A bit like crunchy chicken
With a seafood kick
So with 25 million people
And a reputation as a dive
I´d like to beg to differ
...we came out alive


18th April

Since we last updated we have left Mexico City, but before we left we visited the Floating Gardens (Xochimilco - a series of rivers and canals on the outskirts of the city) and happened to stumble across the only day of the year when they have the 'Festival of the Spring'. This meant there were many more people and local Mexicans in gondalas like us, celebrating Spring with music, alcohol and special floats decorated with flowers. Once we went beyond the carnival it was very peaceful...that was until we reached the 'Museum of the dolls'! This place is a bit tricky to describe but here goes...Keira says 'imagine lots of different sorts of dolls that were once alive but have now gone to hell, death epitomized'. Graham says 'A truly creepy place but strangely compelling!'. The weirdest place we are ever likely to take a leak in.

Floating Gardens Carnival
Doll Museum

On Keira's birthday we left our first hostel and headed to the pink zone (Zona Rosa) of the city, where all the stylish gay people hang out. To celebrate Keira's birthday we had our first meal out in a Mexican Italian restaurant. Graham managed to speak enough Spanish (sign language) to arrange for a candle in Keira's 'Postre' (that means dessert!) and he managed to sing happy birthday in broken Spanish.

Doll from Hell 1
Smiling but scared

After Mexico City we took the coach to Puebla. We had fun here! (?) After visiting some more ruins we tried the local speciality, Mole Pablano (Spicy chocolate chicken), we had the traditional dish and chocolate chicken on a pizza too (Graham was treated to his chocolate sauce in the 'banos' (toilet) for the following two days). This is when it got a bit interesting...we were held up by 50 Mexican bandits wearing sombreros and some on horseback, thanks to Keira's Taebo DVD we managed to overpower the majority of them, unfortunately a few of the stronger remaining ones scarpered with Keira's purse...okay this is what really happened we got caught in a freak rainstorm which turned the roads into rivers, it got dark and we got lost because our hostel was just off our map, so we reluctantly decided to flag down a taxi which took us round in circles for 10 minutes, he overcharged us and Keira left him a big tip for his help...her purse on the back seat. We didn't realise until the next day on our way to Oaxaca...Keira was pleasantly surprised that she had kept her purse for a whole 8 days!

Feliz Cumpleanos Keira!
Mole Pablano

The coach to Oaxaca went through and round many mountains, beautiful but it was a little bit scary at times. In Oaxaca Keira cancelled all her cards and we took an unscheduled tourist stop to the local police station to get a police report for the insurance. Whilst in Oaxaca we also visited a tree which is said to be 2000 - 3000 years old and at it's base is 58 metres around. Unfortunately Graham couldn't get close enough to hug it! We visited some more ruins, the ones at Yagul were great as they had amazing views of the traditional Mexican terrain, cacti, mountains and ruins. The Santa Domingo church in Oaxaca was pretty impressive if a little over the top, with gold gilding covering the interior. The local market was compact but quieter than usual as it was Good Friday and many Mexicans are very religious, we bought a few bits and bobs plus a new purse for Keira.

Drenched and unaware
Oaxaca Zocalo Cathedral

Inside Santa Domingo

Tree hugger

Mexico Landscape from Yagul
G & K at Yagul with cool hats on!

Chavs Mexican Style!

26th April

On leaving Oaxaca we were forced to take the overnight scary bus to San Cristobal. In desperation, Graham listened to his MP3 player and found it to be a good soundtrack to a near death experience! We arrived in San Cristobal and headed straight to the hostel (filthy hippy drug den) and quickly decided to look for somewhere else. After having found another hostel, we headed for dinner with friends we met in Mexico City (Andy & Tamsin as pictured in doll museum). Unawares to us, the 50 Mexican Bandits, hell-bent on revenge for the shame we inflicted on them on our previous encounter, entered the restaurant and spiked Keira's "limonada" with poison! The following 12 hours went something like this: Rush to shared toilet, vomit, diarrhoea, (repeat several times) with Graham standing guard to ensure enough toilet paper, sick bags & warm clothing. After enjoying the visit to the Police Station so much, we decided to check out the local hospital. Keira got some drugs while she was there (perhaps we should have stayed at the first hostel?). After 3 days recovering, Graham decided keira needed some exercise and took her up (what felt like) a mountain, but the views were pretty cool.

The next day we went to 2 indigenous villages with different time zones, languages & cultures. Interestingly, they use Coca-cola in their religious ceremonies to make them belch! (Thereby releasing evil spirits of course! - see poem)

The Indian people of Chamula
Say "Kushee" instead of "Hola"
And like many other people
They worship Coca-cola

It's part of their culture
From the workers to the Chief
More than a fizzy pop
Rather a religious belief

In the colours of the corn,
From cans and bottles they slurp
The evil spirits are released
When they belch or burp!

In the 2nd village, we saw them weave and generally learnt about their traditional, simple way of life. The following day we took the bus to Palenque. there we stayed in a Cabana (fully-equipped hut with shower & toilet) on the edge of the jungle. It had beautiful views, with lots of wildlife (inc. iguanas, lizards, butterflies, cute dogs & lots of fleetles), plus the soothing sound of howling monkeys to sleep by! We visited some Mayan ruins which had a certain charm because they were surrounded by lush vegetation. We also visited 2 gorgeous but very different waterfalls: Misol Ha and Agua Azul. We were able to swim in both the lagoons they created, Misol Ha was more peaceful & enjoyable because there were less tourists but Agua Azul was more impressive due to its scale. Next stop Merida!

Track Wise?
Blue church in San Cristobal

San Cristobal from top of steps
Chamula

Traditional Weaving
Indigenous backyard

Cabana veranda
View from cabana

G drawing Mayan ruins
Mayan ruins at Palenque

Misol Ha
G & K at Agua Azul

Agua Azul